Afterlife of a Poinsettia
by Judith LeVault, Pasco County Master Gardener and
BJ Jarvis, Extension Director and Horticulture Agent.
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Bright and
cheerful holiday poinsettias are often treated as “throwaway”
plants, sitting on the curb in the New Year. Rather than
starting fresh each Christmas, think recycling for next year’s
bloom.
You may either plant in the ground or keep the plant in a container. During the winter months, freezing temperatures here in central Florida can cause Poinsettia damage. Either let nature prune for you, or resolve to cover during the occasional cold nights. Containerized plants can be moved to under cover. After blooms fade, prune the plant back to about 8 inches tall in the late winter (certainly by early April.) Through the summer, periodically prune to keep poinsettia’s green, lush and compact. Stop pruning after the first of September. As the fall months approach, start treating the plant to encourage the colorful bracts. Poinsettias respond to longer nights by setting buds to produce flowers and bracts in November and December. For this to happen, the amount of light the plant receives must be carefully controlled. During the fall months, poinsettias require 6-8 hours of bright sunlight along with 14 hours of total darkness. Containerized poinsettia can be placed in a dark closet each night, making sure no light sneaks beneath the door. What about plants in the ground? They should be covered (possibly with a large box) each night. BEWARE: Any stray light upsets the schedule. If you do not go to this trouble, plants will usually color up later in the year (late December or even January.) Ideal temperatures are between 60 and 70 degrees since warmer or cooler temperatures may delay flowering. Discontinue fertilizing when blooms appear. Follow the daylight and darkness schedule for 8-10 weeks and your poinsettia should reward you with an encore performance! |
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